Thursday, September 18, 2014

Suwon Hwaseong Fortress...UNESCO Heritage

Crown Prince Sado, son of the Joseon ruler King Yeongjo, was unjustly condemned and executed by his father. When Sado's son, King Jeongjo succeeded  his grandfather, King Yeongjo in 1776, he had his father's remains exhumed and buried in a tomb on Mount Hwasan, the most auspicious geomantic site. He built Yongjusa Temple nearby for the repose of his soul, and moved the seat of government to the foot of Mount Paldalsan in Suwon. By moving his seat of government Jeongjo was able to end factional strife, enhance the authority of the throne, and provide greater security for the court within the walls of the new fortress. 


This was laid out in accordance with the work by Jeong Yakyong, a leading scholar of the School of Practical Learning. Building was completed between 1794 and 1796, under the supervision of Chae Je Gong, a former minister and magistrate. There are 4 main gates, on the cardinal points. The Paldalmun Gate in the South and the Janganmun Gate in the North are impressive 2 storey wooden structures on stone bases, flanked by guard platforms and shielded by half-moon ravelins built from fired brick. They are linked by the main road running through the complex.


Directions to Hwaseong Fortress: Line 1 of the Seoul subway system to the Suwon station. Take exit 4 or 5, then walk straight to the first bus stop you see. Any number of buses head to Paldalmun – the front / main gate – or Hwaseong Fortress, including buses 11, 13, 13-3, 20, 32, and 58. In fact you can walk from the station straight down to Suwon Hwaseong Fortress. We did a nice walk down and saw Paldamun Gate. Admission is 1,000 won; while the path I walked along the fortress wall is not wheelchair / stroller friendly, some areas inside the fortress are. While you are there, you can try the Hwaseong Trolley which is rather fun as saves you from walking a big loop across the fortress grounds.  


I was waiting for my turn to sit on Hwaseong Dragon Trolley (fees apply)

Haenggung Palace is built within the walls of Hwaseong to house King Jeongjo when he was away from his palace in Seoul. When he's not in residence it was used by his delegated  
official as a base of government. Haenggung was used for a 60th birthday party for King Jeongjo's mother, elderly citizens' feasts and national exams. At times if you're lucky you might get to see filming of Sageuk dramas around the palace. The drama, Princess Man by Park Shi Hoo & Moon Chae Won and The King & I by Oh Man Suk and Gu Hye Sun were filmed at Haeunggung Palace. I was lucky to be there when there were some performances by the warriors and tourists were gathering around to watch the sword fighting and snapping photos with the 'extras'. Ha ha!

Performance at Haeunggung Palace 





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